The Beginner's Guide to Choosing the Perfect Pair of Climbing Shoes for Your Next Adventure

Written by Daisie Team

Published on 21 June 2023 8 min read

Embarking on a climbing adventure can be an exhilarating experience, but it all starts with choosing the right pair of climbing shoes. This beginner's guide will walk you through the various types of climbing shoes, how to find the perfect fit, and even some popular brands to consider for your next purchase. Let's get started on finding the ideal climbing shoes for your next adventure!

Understanding Climbing Shoe Types

There are three main types of climbing shoes to consider when making your selection: neutral, moderate, and aggressive. Each type is designed to cater to different climbing styles and skill levels. Let's take a closer look at each type.

Neutral Shoes

Neutral climbing shoes are perfect for beginners or those looking for a comfortable all-day wear. These shoes feature:

A flat sole, providing comfort and support for long climbing sessions
Thicker rubber, offering durability and improved grip
A relaxed fit, allowing your toes to lie flat in the shoe

Neutral shoes are ideal for long multi-pitch climbs or extended sessions at the climbing gym, as they prioritize comfort and support.

Moderate Shoes

As you progress in your climbing skills, moderate climbing shoes are an excellent choice. These shoes are characterized by:

A slightly downturned shape, providing more precision and power on smaller holds
Thinner rubber, offering increased sensitivity to feel the rock or wall
A snug fit, ensuring a secure connection between your foot and the shoe

These shoes are versatile, working well for both indoor and outdoor climbing, and can handle various types of terrain, including slab, vertical walls, and overhangs.

Aggressive Shoes

For advanced climbers tackling challenging routes, aggressive climbing shoes are the way to go. Features of these shoes include:

A highly downturned shape, allowing for precision on tiny holds and steep overhangs
Sticky rubber, providing exceptional grip and friction
A tight, asymmetric fit, focusing power on the big toe for maximum control

Aggressive shoes are best suited for bouldering, sport climbing, and difficult indoor routes, but may not be the most comfortable option for extended wear.

Choosing the Right Size

Now that you understand the different types of climbing shoes, it's time to find the right size for your feet. A proper fit is essential for both comfort and performance, so let's explore how to measure your feet and try on climbing shoes.

Measuring Your Feet

Before you start shopping for climbing shoes, it's a good idea to measure your feet. Here's how:

Place a piece of paper on a flat surface, and stand on it with your heel against a wall.
Mark the longest part of your foot on the paper.
Measure the distance from the wall to the mark in centimeters or inches.
Repeat the process for your other foot, as they might be slightly different in size.

Having these measurements handy will make it easier to find the right size when trying on climbing shoes, as sizing can vary between brands and models.

Trying on Shoes

When trying on climbing shoes, keep the following tips in mind:

Wear thin socks or go barefoot, as this is how you'll likely be climbing.
Try on shoes later in the day, when your feet are slightly swollen from walking or other activities.
Remember that climbing shoes should feel snug but not painfully tight. Your toes should touch the front of the shoe without being cramped or curled.
Walk around and test the shoes on an inclined surface if possible, to ensure they provide the support and grip you need.
Don't be afraid to try different brands, models, and sizes until you find the perfect fit!

Remember, a well-fitted pair of climbing shoes can significantly enhance your performance and comfort on the wall or rock.

Materials and Construction

Once you've found the right size, it's time to consider the materials and construction of your climbing shoes. These factors can affect the shoes' fit, performance, and durability. Let's take a closer look at the differences between leather and synthetic materials, laces vs. Velcro, and various types of soles and rubber.

Leather vs. Synthetic

Climbing shoes can be made from leather or synthetic materials, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages:

Leather: Leather climbing shoes tend to be more breathable, comfortable, and durable. They can also stretch over time, providing a more personalized fit. However, they may require a break-in period and can be more expensive than synthetic shoes.
Synthetic: Synthetic climbing shoes are often lighter and more affordable than leather ones. They also tend to maintain their shape better, which is particularly important for aggressive shoes. On the downside, they may not be as breathable or comfortable as leather shoes.

Ultimately, the choice between leather and synthetic materials should be based on your personal preferences and priorities when it comes to comfort, performance, and price.

Laces vs. Velcro

Another important consideration when choosing climbing shoes is the closure system. The two most common options are laces and Velcro straps:

Laces: Laced climbing shoes offer a more precise and customizable fit, as you can tighten or loosen them to your preference. They may also provide a more secure and supportive feel. However, they can take longer to put on and take off, which can be inconvenient during multi-pitch climbs or bouldering sessions.
Velcro: Velcro straps make it quick and easy to put on and remove your climbing shoes. This can be especially useful when bouldering, as you'll likely be taking your shoes on and off frequently between attempts. The trade-off is that Velcro shoes may not provide the same level of adjustability and precision fit as laced shoes.

Consider your climbing style and preferences when choosing between laces and Velcro for your climbing shoes.

Soles and Rubber

The soles and rubber used in climbing shoes can greatly impact their performance on various types of terrain. Here are some key factors to consider:

Thickness: Thicker soles (4-5mm) provide more support and durability, making them ideal for beginners or those who primarily climb on vertical terrain. Thinner soles (3-4mm) offer better sensitivity and precision, which can be beneficial for more advanced climbers or those tackling overhangs and delicate footholds.
Stiffness: Stiffer soles offer better support for edging and small footholds, while more flexible soles can enhance your ability to smear and feel the rock. Consider the type of climbing you'll be doing most often when choosing between stiff and flexible soles.
Rubber: Different rubber compounds offer varying levels of grip, durability, and sensitivity. Some popular options include Vibram's XS Edge and XS Grip, as well as Stealth from Five Ten. Be sure to research the specific rubber used in your chosen climbing shoes to ensure it meets your needs on the wall or rock.

By evaluating the materials and construction of your climbing shoes, you'll be well on your way to finding the perfect pair for your next adventure.

Popular Brands and Models

With so many options available, it can be challenging to narrow down your choices when it comes to climbing shoes. To help you on your quest, we've compiled a list of popular brands and models known for their quality and performance. Remember, the best climbing shoe for you will depend on your personal preferences and climbing style.

La Sportiva

La Sportiva is a well-known brand in the climbing community, offering a wide range of high-quality climbing shoes for various skill levels and styles. Some popular models include:

Tarantulace: An affordable and comfortable option for beginners, the Tarantulace features a neutral shape and a combination of leather and synthetic materials for breathability and durability.
Miura: A versatile shoe suitable for both bouldering and sport climbing, the Miura is known for its precise edging and aggressive downturn. It's available in both lace-up and Velcro versions.
Solution: Ideal for steep overhangs and bouldering, the Solution features an aggressive downturn and a unique heel cup for a secure fit, making it a favorite among advanced climbers.

Scarpa

Another reputable brand in the climbing shoe market, Scarpa offers a variety of high-performance shoes. Some top models include:

Helix: A great option for beginners, the Helix features a flat, neutral shape for all-day comfort and a Vibram XS Edge rubber for excellent grip on various surfaces.
Instinct VS: A versatile shoe with a moderate downturn, the Instinct VS is suitable for both sport climbing and bouldering. Its Vibram XS Edge rubber provides great edging capabilities, while the Velcro closure allows for easy on and off.
Drago: Designed for high-performance bouldering and sport climbing, the Drago boasts an aggressive downturn and soft, sensitive rubber for exceptional grip and precision on steep terrain.

Evolv

Evolv is a US-based brand that offers a range of climbing shoes for different skill levels and preferences. Some popular models are:

Defy: A comfortable and affordable option for beginners, the Defy features a neutral shape and a synthetic upper for a consistent fit. The TRAX rubber provides reliable grip on various climbing surfaces.
Shaman: Designed in collaboration with professional climber Chris Sharma, the Shaman is an aggressive shoe ideal for steep sport routes and bouldering. Its unique "love bump" midsole offers extra support for precise foot placements.
Agro: Built for high-performance bouldering, the Agro features an aggressive downturn and a unique tension system for a secure and precise fit. Its TRAX rubber offers excellent grip and sensitivity on small footholds and steep terrain.

Five Ten

Five Ten, now owned by Adidas, is known for its high-quality climbing shoes and innovative rubber compounds. Some notable models include:

Anasazi VCS: A versatile shoe with a moderate downturn, the Anasazi VCS is suitable for both trad climbing and sport climbing. Its Stealth C4 rubber provides excellent grip and durability, while the Velcro closure ensures a secure fit.
Hiangle: Designed for steep sport routes and bouldering, the Hiangle features an aggressive downturn and a stiff midsole for precise edging and powerful toe-hooks. The Stealth C4 rubber delivers exceptional grip on a variety of surfaces.
Team: A high-performance shoe developed for competition climbing, the Team boasts an aggressive downturn and a soft, sensitive rubber for unmatched precision on small holds and steep terrain.

By exploring these popular brands and models, you'll be one step closer to finding the perfect pair of climbing shoes for your next adventure.

Caring for Your Climbing Shoes

Once you've found the perfect pair of climbing shoes, it's important to take care of them to ensure they last as long as possible. Proper care not only extends the lifespan of your shoes but also maintains their performance on the rock. Here are some tips for cleaning, storing, and resoling your climbing shoes.

Cleaning and Drying

Keeping your climbing shoes clean can help prevent odors and maintain the shoe's grip. Follow these simple steps:

After each climbing session, use a soft brush or cloth to remove dirt and chalk from the shoe's upper and rubber.
If your shoes are particularly dirty or smelly, you can clean them with a damp cloth and mild soap. Make sure to avoid soaking the shoes or using harsh chemicals, as this can damage the materials.
Allow your shoes to air dry in a well-ventilated area, away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Do not use a hairdryer or place them near a radiator, as high heat can cause the rubber to delaminate or the shoes to lose their shape.

Proper Storage

Storing your climbing shoes correctly can help preserve their shape and performance. Keep these tips in mind:

Store your shoes in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, as prolonged exposure can weaken the rubber and materials.
When transporting your shoes, avoid cramming them into a tight space or bending them out of shape. A dedicated shoe bag or a breathable mesh bag can help protect your shoes during travel.
Consider using a shoe-specific deodorizer or moisture-absorbing packets to help prevent odors and keep your shoes fresh.

When to Resole

Over time, the rubber on your climbing shoes will wear down, affecting their grip and performance. Resoling your shoes can save you money and reduce waste by extending the life of your shoes. Here's when you should consider resoling:

Inspect your shoes regularly for signs of wear, such as thinning rubber or holes near the toe or edges.
If you notice a significant decrease in performance or if the rubber has worn down to the midsole, it's time to resole.
It's generally more cost-effective to resole your shoes multiple times before replacing them entirely, as long as the shoe's upper and overall structure are still in good condition.

By following these tips for caring for your climbing shoes, you can ensure that your investment lasts as long as possible while maintaining top-notch performance on the wall or the rock.

If you're looking to push your creative boundaries and step out of your comfort zone, don't miss the workshop 'Expanding your Creative Comfort Zones' by Celina Rodriguez. This workshop will provide you with the guidance and inspiration you need to unlock your full creative potential and explore new possibilities.